Esquel, south of El Bolson and in the province of Chubut, is just about as far south as we got into Patagonia. It is the transition between the mountains of the Andes and the steppe of Patagonia.  While Patagonia does not really have a defined border, most seem to accept that it begins in Chubut. We were in Esquel from Feb 18 – Feb 22, 2009. This unremarkable town ended up offering us some of the highlights of our entire trip.

We spent the first day trying to find a place to stay.  We had found something adequate but not very interesting via Lonely Planet for the first night. But since she only had one night available, we had to find something else anyway.  Our search led us to a cabin that we loved, made with loving care by the owners.  It was really a wonderful place.  These photos only give you a small idea.

The town of Esquel was not remarkable.  But there were great things to experience in the environs. 

 The first one was a ride on a narrow guage steam train that, with its wooden cars and hard backed benches, is a national historical monument.  The train yards are open, and we were able to walk around and observe, close up,  the staff getting the engine ready for its journey. 

Called La Tronchita (a dimutive for “guage”), the whole excursion takes about three hours, goes up into the mountains a bit and takes you to a Mapuche hamlet called Naheul Pan.  The folks there wait with their crafts and food for the arrival of the tourists.  Amazingly, it is all low-key and pretty tastefully done. They also maintain a lovely little museum about Mapuche history.  We boughts some hand knitted, woolen socks.

The second thing we did, and a main reason we were in Esquel in the first place, was to visit the Parque Nacional los Alerces.  You may remember Steve’s post about the priest he met on the trail at  Aconcagua who wrote a payada for Steve and encouraged him to visit this 263,000 hectare park. 

This park owes its name to a tree named incorrectly Alerces (or larch) by some Europeans because it looked like the larch.  It is also known as the Patagonian Cypress, but the name Alerces seems to have stuck.  It is a very unusual, slow growing tree that requires certain moist conditions and other factors to grow.  So, basically, it only grows in this part of the world.

You get to the part of the park where these trees grow by boat across a glacial lake, and then must take a guided tour through a protected area.  It was a great walk through the thick forest, along a river, water fall, etc. , culminating in a visit to the oldest tree in the place, known as El Abuelo.  Unfortunately I don’t remember just how old this tree is, but rest assured that it is up there in the thousands of years.

But even more exciting than seeing this tree was experiencing the guide, Manuel.  A young man, enthusiastic about his work and about the wonders of the natural world. A born teacher, he was able to beautifully and articulately impress upon us lessons about ecology, conservation and the importance of passing the message on to younger generations.

El Abuelo

We got back to town in time for a sunset over Esquel and with enough time to prepare for our departure by bus the next day. We would be traveling overnight across the steppe to the Altantic coast and the city of Trelew.